I've just gotten this orchid from someone who didnt want it anymore. Is it dead? I don't know the first thing about caring for it. Please help!
How do I care for this cymbidium orchid??
Keep it in indirect sunlight water it throughly once a week repot it using a orchid potting mix they are relatively easy to take care of .
Reply:Your plant will be sickly and die within a year or two if treated like this. I guarentee it will not bloom. This plants are subtropical plants from the Himalayan foothills, not tropical plants like Phalaenopsis. They require completely different care. Report It
Reply:In terms of light and temperature, peoples' experience growing Phalaenopsis and many other orchids has little to do with growing Cymbidiums.
First off, your plant needs a lot more light than it's been getting. Cymbidiums are high light as far as orchids go. Out here (California) people grow them outside in part sun, filtered sun, or under shadecloth (I'm not sure what percent). They are happiest when their leaves are yellow-green in color, although a lot of people don't push it that far. However, when they don't bloom, people are invariably told to give them more light. The two new growths, by the way, look like they're from this year and last year. And this is important: they NEED cool low temperatures (50-60) in fall to bloom. Here's a nice description of their care:
"Standard cymbidiums are sold in 8- to 10-inch pots, miniatures in 6-inch pots. BLOOM TIME: September-January (miniatures), February–early May (standards). LIGHT: As much as possible, without burning leaves. Plants with yellow-green leaves usually flower best. TEMPERATURE: Minis: 70° or higher (day), 60° (night). Standards: 60°–75° (day), 50°–55° (night) is ideal, but higher summertime temperatures (to 90° or so) and near-freezing winter temperatures are tolerated if plants are sheltered. POTTING MIX: Packaged cymbidium mix. Or fine-grade fir bark mixed with peat moss or perlite or both. WATERING: Keep soil moist during growing season, March-September. In winter, water just enough to keep bulbs from shriveling. FEEDING: January-July, feed with complete liquid fertilizer high in nitrogen every 10 days to 2 weeks; August-December, feed as frequently with low-nitrogen fertilizer."
The two bare "backbulbs" may be natural or perhaps the plant was unhappy. They will form naturally from old growths and provide energy for the pseudobulbs with leaves. You can actually remove them to start plants or sometimes buy them (Santa Barbara Orchid Estate for Example). You should leave these two on. I would not worry about them.
It's recommended that you repot them about every three years--so you might want to guess how long it's been. The last reference has a description of repotting. If you were to do it next spring, I personally would not divide the plant.
p.s. you can always cut off the old flower stalk
EDIT: Just checked more on the light requirements--50% shadecloth inland. They can take full sun along the coast.
Reply:Here is more interesting information. By the way, most orchids do not like direct sunlight, so if you ever receive another type be sure to look up the care information:
http://www.beautifulorchids.com/orchids/...
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