My boyfriend gave me white orchids for our aniversery.But i dont know how to take care of them.They were wrapped in green tissue paper.Now...i know you can hang roses up-side down and they'll dry like that,but can you do the same with orchids?I want them to last forever,but i dont want the pettles to fall off in a few days.Any help would be great!
Orchid Care?
Hi,
You cannot dry orchids in the same manner that you do roses. Here is some info for you regarding the preservation of orchids. I hope it is helpful to you.
FREEZE DRYING
The best method to preserve a fresh orchids is to freeze dry them. This preserves the fresh flowers exactly in the condition they were when they were frozen. This method is more expensive but produces the best results. Check your local phone book to see if there are freeze drying services in your area.
DRYING AGENTS
If freeze drying is not an option for you the next best drying method is with a flower drying agent. The flowers still tend to look close to the condition they were in when dried. Craft stores sell flower drying agents with the most popular being silica gel powder. To dry orchids you put the item in a airtight container and completely cover with the silica gel powder and then seal in the container. Check after 2 days to see if needs additional drying time.
AIR DRYING
Air drying is the worst method of preserving orchids. The flowers typically continue to decay while they are air drying so they start to brown and shrivel up. It typically takes a month for orchids to fully air dry.
Best wishes!
Reply:That is sweet. Thanks for the vote and I wish you all the best :-) Report It
Reply:oneilt@veriz must hate you for that one.... Report It
Reply:Press them in a heavy book and stack more on top of it.
Reply:Light and Ventilation:
Most cultivated orchids can be grown in a sunny window or under lights. Either plant lights or a combination of cool white (fluorescent) and warm white will do. Many orchid enthusiasts grow their plants in or near a window with supplemental lighting. Orchids need humidity levels of 45-65%, easily obtained on pebble trays. Fill a tray with stones and water. Set the plants on the stones so that the pot bottoms rest just above the water line. Misting on sunny days will help, just be sure that plants are dry by evening. Orchids do best with good ventilation, as do most house plants. You could use a small fan to provide extra ventilation if needed.
Water:
Orchids need good drainage and should be watered only when dry. Many orchids have pseudobulbs which store water like succulents and cactus. Orchids with pseudobulbs (such as Cattleyas) should go totally dry between watering. Orchids without pseudobulbs (such as phalaenopsis, vandas, and paphiopedilums) should be watered when moderately dry. Orchids use more water when they are actively growing. As with all house plants, water the orchid until water is flowing from the bottom of the pot. When watering orchids, use water that is warm or room temperature. Feeding every other watering is suggested at a rate of 1/4 tsp. per gallon for most orchids. Plants that are actively growing should be fed 20-20-20. Plants that are completing their new growth should be fed 10-30-20 (high in phosphorus and potassium).
Orchids require different light intensities and indoor (winter) nighttemperatures:
Phalaenopsis and Paphiopedilums require filtered sun or bright indirect light in winter, shade in summer, and night temperatures of 60-65° F and most of the Cattleyas alliance (Laelia, Sophronitis, etc.) require at least 1/2 day full sun in the winter months, filtered sun during the summer, and a night temp. of 55-60°.
Vandas require a south window and a night temp. of 55-65°. Cymbidiums require as much sun as possible and night temperatures of 50-58°, providing their flower spikes are set. Orchids grow best when summered outdoors. Move all plants out under shade in mid-May. Cymbidiums and Vandas should be gradually moved to a spot where they will receive all but the hot midday sun. They will tolerate even that by late August.
Cattleyas should be gradually moved to receive almost as much sun. Hang them where leaves will shade them at midday. Keep Phalaenopsis and Paphiopedilums suspended in total shade. Bring phals and paphs in after they have received at least two weeks of 50° night temperatures in autumn, Cattleyas after 45-50°, and cymbidiums 35° F.
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